
In a small alley of An Hoa Ward in Bien Hoa City of Dong Nai province, a modest shrine attracts many locals to offer incense and fruit for peace and prosperity.
The shrine is divided into two sections. In one section, there is an altar dedicated to Than Nong (Saturn), and in the other, a main sanctum venerating Ba Chua Xu (Holy Mother of the Realm), Quan Am (Guanyin), and the five elemental mother goddesses of Kim (Metal), Moc (Wood), Thuy (Water), Hoa (Fire), and Tho (Earth). In front of the main sanctum is a sign reading "Mieu Ba Khoanh"
Locals said the shrine, near the Ben Go River, has stood for over a century. Its name is derived from a mysterious tale about a "lady snake."
Mai Thi Tong, 79, the shrine's caretaker, said: "I came here when I was 19 and heard tales from the elders about the origins of Mieu Ba Khoanh.
A big 'lady snake' with a bright red crest used to live here. Whenever there was a ceremony at the shrine, she would come in and rolled herself beneath the altar.
After the villagers completed their offerings, the 'lady snake' would leave. Thus, they named the shrine Mieu Ba Khoanh. The term 'Khoanh' doesn’t mean a name of a person, but describes the snake's rolling behavior at the shrine.
The legend is documented in a research work by Cultural Scholar Ly Viet Dung. It states: "Once, there was a large female snake with the size of an adult's calf, a bright red crest, that often rolled herself on the riverbank."
Ben Go villagers thought this was a good omen, which showed a divine blessing for their crops and they decided to build a shrine from bamboo and leaves in her honor.
Later, the Mai family from the Fishing Hamlet (Ben Go) took the initiative to build and renovate the shrine using brick, stone, and wood in 1930, 1954, and other years.
Mieu Ba Khoanh holds a major ceremony on the 15th day of the 3rd lunar month, notably maintaining the custom of offering raw pork.
Mai Thi Tong noted that despite its small size and hidden location, the Mieu Ba Khoanh is renowned for its spiritual significance and attracts many visitors seeking blessings.
Locals continue to recount not only the story behind the shrine’s origins but also a mysterious tale of the "lady snake" appearing during ceremonial events.
Legend has it that during such ceremonies, sounds of horses could be heard late at night echoing from Ben Go River towards the shrine. Unable to explain the phenomenon, people believed it to be the "Lady Snake" riding a horse to attend the ceremony and accept offerings.
Tong insists that locals have seen traces which confirm the existence of a "lady snake" within the shrine grounds.
"There were two ancient trees near the shrine. Their vast canopies cast wide shadows, and during leaf fall, the ground was carpeted with leaves.
"People, when passing by the shrine, would hear the rustling sound of a large snake slithering over dry leaves. Some people even saw snake skins with large scales near tree roots or amidst the foliage.
"Consequently, everyone believes in the 'lady snake's' presence and holds spiritual reverence towards the small shrine. There are always caretakers for the shrine, while locals and outsiders bring incense, candles, and fruits as offerings every day."
According to Tong, every year, on the 15th day of the 3rd lunar month, the shrine hosts a major ceremony with cultural activities like Hat Boi (folk opera), and mua lan (lion dances). On the evening of the first day of lunar year, the shrine opens for people to come and offer incense and pray for good fortune.
Dao Xuan Hong, Vice Chairman of the An Hoa Ward People's Committee, confirmed with VietNamNet that MieuBa Khoanh has existed in the ward for hundreds of years.
Regarding the legend and stories about the large snake at the shrine, this is just folklore.
“Annually, the shrine holds ceremonies at specific times for people to offer incense. There are no superstitious activities conducted at the shrine," he said.
This is a beautiful folk culture that Ben Go people teach their descendants about to take turns preserving and promoting for future generations.
Ha Nguyen