The food court at Cho Mo, one of Hanoi’s oldest and most iconic markets, is a haven for diners during lunchtime, offering a wide range of affordable dishes such as bun dau mam tom (fermented shrimp paste with tofu), dried beef salad, pho, and rice porridge.

Located at the bustling intersection of Bach Mai and Minh Khai streets in Hai Ba Trung District, Cho Mo, previously a traditional open-air market, was transformed in 2014 into a modern shopping and commercial center. Today, the market is situated in the basement of this complex, earning it the nickname "Hanoi’s underground market."

A culinary hotspot

Like other traditional markets, Cho Mo offers a wide range of goods, from dried foods to clothing and fabrics, with dedicated sections for each category. However, it is the food court near the basement entrance that has become the main attraction, especially during lunchtime.

Here, visitors can enjoy a variety of Hanoi’s culinary delights, including classics like bun dau mam tom, bun rieu (crab noodle soup), and pho, all at budget-friendly prices.

During the summer, the market is popular among workers, students, and locals from nearby areas who seek refreshing treats like sweet soups, mixed fruit, and tao pho (tofu pudding). In the colder months, warm and hearty dishes like banh duc nong (hot rice cake), che troi tau (sweet glutinous rice dumplings), shrimp cakes, and fried dumplings become the go-to options.

Visitors rave about the affordability and variety of the food, with prices ranging from VND 10,000 to VND 40,000 per dish, making it accessible to people from all walks of life. Many even find it cheaper compared to other dining spots in the city.

For instance, a serving of bun dau mam tom is priced at VND 35,000, dried beef salad costs VND 25,000, fresh spring rolls are VND 15,000 for two, and a cup of tao pho is just VND 10,000.

Thao Trinh